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Hop Trip

A Love Letter to the Festival of Dark Arts

The dark clouds close in, bringing a splatter of drizzle. The slate, almost still mirror of the Columbia River belies the turbulent entrance to the Pacific ocean a few miles down. Bland industrial buildings are broken up by brightly colored Victorian homes. It is a sleepy Saturday with only a few people braving the elements to trod along the riverwalk. However, a few blocks from the water something is stirring. There is the clatter of metal kegs being put into place. The smell of woodsmoke fills the air, followed quickly by the scent of bacon. As you approach this spot, a sense of anticipation grows. You see small groups of people bundled up, talking excitedly, many wearing clothing items bearing the name of some brewery or other. Some familiar, some not. They all are moving toward the same destination. That is when you see a line, snaking around a building that takes up an entire block. The small groups have gathered into a horde, all clutching small fluted glasses. Many look at lists, some on their phone, some printed out. You glance over someone’s shoulder to spy the list. It is a list of beers, all dark, all malty, but all different. It is time for the annual ode to the stout. It is time for the Festival of Dark Arts.

For those unfamiliar with what I’m talking about Fort George Brewery (located in Astoria, Oregon) hosts an annual beer festival in February that is devoted to the art of the stout (a “carnival of stouts” if you will). As a craft beer nerd, I am a fan of beer fests in general, but ever since I first attended the Festival of Dark Arts in 2018 it has been far and away my favorite. Why? How different could a particular beer fest possibly be? Let me tell you.

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Hop Trip: Astoria

Day 1: Portland

As we rolled into Portland after a three-hour drive from Bend, we headed for an old favorite, Hopworks. I have discussed Hopworks on this blog before so I won’t repeat myself too much and only say it is awesome and if the Velvet ESB is on tap, try it because it is a deliciously underrated beer (and ESB’s in general are an underrated style).

Velvet ESB @ Hopworks, also my little hop friend, Brewce Hoppington

As our next planned stops opened a bit later in the afternoon, we dropped in at Gigantic Brewing, always a good choice and one of my husband’s favorites. I was really excited to try their new Project Pilsner beers because I love a clean, simple, delicious beer when I can find it. I ordered the Project Pilsner Citra. One of the things I like best about Gigantic is that they like to take big swings when it comes to their beer. Often this works out well for them, but I feel like they fell a little short of the target with this beer. While the beer was in no way bad (I don’t think they make a pour down the drain beer) the Citra overwhelmed the Pilsner to a distracting degree (citra is a very flavorful hop and pilsners tend to be more understated beers).

Gigantic Brewing Company
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Hop Trip: Hood River

One of my goals for 2020 was to do one Hop Trip per month. However, COVID-19 seems to have put the kibosh on that idea, at least for awhile. Since I can’t go anywhere, I figured I should finally post about the two I did go on before everything became weird all the time (hooray!). With that in mind, here’s the first one: my short excursion to the beer capital of the Columbia River Gorge: Hood River.

Day 1

After a couple hours drive north from Bend, we arrived in Hood River. After checking in at the Best Western (a really nice hotel btw) we headed over to Ferment Brewing.

Ferment Brewing Company
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Hop Trip PDX

Ah Portland. My former home and a place I have come to love and hate in just about equal measure. However, I will exclude the hate from this post and talk about one of the reasons I love Portland so very much: beer! It is one of the American beer meccas and with good reason. It has 75 breweries and counting within city limits and some of the biggest names in the industry work, or have worked, for one of Portland’s breweries. I mean they call the city Beervana for a reason. You get it.

In short, Portland is all about the craft beer and this is the first of what I assume will be many Portland Hop Trips. So let’s get going!

 

Why Camas?

Our first stop isn’t technically in Portland but as it is counted as part of the Portland Metro area I’m going to include it. Camas is a smaller city on the eastern side of Vancouver, Washington and comprises part of the Portland Metro that resides on the Washington side of the Columbia River. So why Camas? Two reasons: my sister-in-law lives there and there’s beer. My husband’s youngest sister lives on the edge of Camas in the middle of nowhere (because she hates people and wants to make it very difficult for people to come see her-sorry, Mary, but it’s true) so our Hop Trip started there to see her and get in some baby cuddles (her son is a year and a half).

While you may not guess it driving around Camas (especially with the paper mill which likes to stink up the entire area if the wind is blowing in the right direction) there are a couple of top notch breweries in town. Our first stop was a place I’d been before in the heart of downtown Camas (which is like 3 blocks long): Mill City Brew Werks. It looks like any other pub style restaurant (i.e. not terribly exciting) but don’t let looks fool you, these guys make some quality beer. They also have an adorable intro video you can watch here. This place is not about fads and tend to stick to more Germanic beer styles (the last time I was here the owner told us all about the yeast strain that their family brought over from Germany so I suppose that focus makes sense). As such we stuck with those styles in our sampling: I had the Kolsch while my husband went for the Hefeweizen. The Kolsch was crisp, clean, and absolutely perfect since it was way too fucking hot that day (more on that later). I also recommend their food which is all sourced locally and pretty damn delicious.

Mill City Brew Werks Kolsch

Best beer in Camas

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